Wednesday, March 5, 2025

2025 Mexican Riviera: Planning for 7N Cruise on Navigator of the Seas

Wednesday March 6, 2025 through Thursday March 14, 2025 


The germination of this trip began in very late March 2024, in the midst of planning our Aug/Sep 2025 Transatlantic on Brilliance of the Seas. By then I was back in the “let’s go on a cruise” mindset and I was starting to look at what our pathway to Diamond C&A status might be. In March 2024 we had 33 C&A points, enough for Platinum. Our next milestones would be 50 for Emerald – which qualified us for a paltry 2 bottles of free water each – and, finally, 80 for Diamond, where the real benefits would kick in. In particular, I had my eye on the “4 free drinks per day” that Diamonds get!

I began to wonder whether there was a reasonably cost-effective way to cruise sometime earlier in 2025 to generate some additional C&A points before our TA. There was no way we were going to get to Diamond before our 2025 TA, but perhaps I could find a way to collect 47 more points before a potential second TA in 2027? In other words, what would be the pathway in 2025 and 2026 that would get us to at least 80 C&A points?

One obvious way was to look into a cruise where we could generate double points via The Suite Life. However, to do this I didn’t want to break the bank, so I wanted to find a less-expensive cruise where the suite pricing wasn’t outrageous. I managed to find a cruise out of LA (further reducing expenses since flights are cheap compared to heading to the East Coast) that had suite pricing in the range of balcony prices on other sailings so pursued that. I’m jealous of Floridia-based cruisers who can drive to any of 4 ports pretty much at the drop of a hat and avoid all the airfare us West Coast cruisers have to deal with for most routes. Of course, living in San Jose we still choose to jump on a plane to get to Long Beach rather than make the 7-8 hour drive – but this is all still significantly less expensive than flying to Florida! I hope that Royal will commit more ships to the West Coast sometime soon so we’d have more options. (In fact, they are doing just that for 2025-2026. Quantum is going to be joining Navigator and running a series of YAAWWWN three and four day cruises with the occasional 6 day schedule thrown in. We’ll see if taking advantage of this new ship somehow fits into our planning for 2026 or not.)

Anyway, that’s how we found ourselves on Navigator of the Seas in March 2025 heading to the so-called Mexican Riviera. Honestly, when I booked the cruise – which I had done before March 2024 was over – I paid absolutely zero attention to the ports, since I knew we really didn’t care about WHERE we were going. We just wanted to be on board a ship where we could entertain ourselves. Whether we went ashore or not was a secondary concern as far as we were concerned. In fact, we were going to have stops in Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlán, and Puerto Vallarta, along with three full sea days.

Just as I’d done for the TA, I booked this cruise via Costco. I managed to get a J3 Junior Suite – in fact, a 9th deck HUMP cabin – for a really good price. For this one we got $400 back from Costco, so we’ve managed to get $900 in store credit between the two cruises, which is a really nice deal! As this sailing still had a lot of unsold cabins we were able to get Early dining (unlike the TA, where the only remaining choice was MTD). Later, coincidentally, I found a cabin walkthough video for our exact stateroom which revealed it to be a slightly oversize J3 with both a couch and a lounge chair. Sweet! At the time I booked I somehow overlooked that this was a connecting cabin – so we’ll see what impact the potential noise from next door impacts us. The walkthrough video seemed to intentionally avoid talking about the connecting door.

Sometime later, I learned something less sweet. When I was working on my data-scraping program I wanted to find a decent source for data. Someone on CC pointed me to CruisePlum, which turned out to be a great find. One of the things the CruisePlum site offers is graphing of cabin pricing. Upon reviewing those graphs, it because obvious that RCCL changes their prices very predictably: they raise prices EVERY Friday and Saturday before returning them to a lower Sunday-Thursday pricing. Up, down, up down, up down – week after week (until they decide to raise the whole baseline price, and then start the weekly bump cycle over again). As it happens, not knowing this behavior I had booked our cruise on a Friday night – so ended up paying about $250 more than I would have by buying on Sunday-Thursday. Lesson learned.

Right after I’d booked this cruise I finally heard back from Kim Royer, who I’d emailed at Avoya a couple of weeks earlier hoping to get some TA quotes from her. For whatever reason she was slow to reply to my original email. However, she did reply to the TA request with a “good to hear from you” and a quote on a TA cabin which she’d placed a courtesy hold on for me. Her price was $100 MORE than Costco’s, and she was only offering $100 total OBC. I thanked her and told her I’d be in touch if/when we were considering 2026 cruises – which I will follow up on. However, this made me VERY happy with our Costco deals. The only worry is that, if problems arise, I don’t have high hopes about getting much help from Costco, whereas I’m certain Kim would fight on our behalf. (If I’d had a TA to work with I’m sure I could have rebooked our cabin at the “normal” weekly price instead of the Friday/Saturday artificially increased price and saved about $250 – but c’est la vie!

When I checked our list of bookings at RCCL’s website I noted that it was possible to book both E’s soft drink package as well as VOOM internet right away. I wasn’t expecting to find those available yet as we’re still almost a year out. I took advantage of what (I assume) will likely be the best pricing that will be offered by signing her up for her drink package as well as a single-person, 2 device internet plan. The pricing on the internet is strange – I could have gotten each of us a single device plan, but that was significantly more expensive than getting one of us a two-device plan. We’ll login as the same person on two devices (and if we login on a 3rd device it will kick off the oldest previously-logged-in device), but this is fine. Upon discovering that I could make these purchases in early April 2024 I also checked on our Aug/Sep 2025 TA and discovered I could lock in similar pricing for that cruise, too, so I did so. Right around this time a new site for tracking cruise add-on packages debuted and I added all of our scheduled cruises into it to relieve myself from having to track price changes.

Looked into whether to fly into LAX or Long Beach (LGB) and determined that LGB was a better choice. Not only closer to the cruise port, located in San Pedro, but also a MUCH less busy airport. Seems to only handle about 45 or so flights per day – including a few direct from SJC. The original thought was to fly in the morning of the cruise and grab a Lyft from the airport to the port, but the most likely flight wouldn’t have us arriving in LGB until late morning and a) I wanted to board earlier, if possible, and b) there’s always the potential for flight delays causing more stress than we’d like. So decided that the best plan would be to fly into LGB late Thursday afternoon (our cruise boards on Friday) and spend the night in a hotel in/around LGB.

So WHERE in/around LGB? Did the normal survey of places as well as consulting CruiseCritic. CC folks basically all focus on one of the two hotels that are within about a mile of the port – and which carry a ridiculously high room rate of up to $500/night. I settled on the much less expensive Homewood Suites Long Beach Airport. That’s a dual-purpose Hilton property, housing Hampton Inn on one side and Homewood Suites on the other. Homewood rooms looked slightly nicer, and Homewood is reputed to have one of the better breakfasts among hotels, so went that route. They also offer a “call for pickup” free shuttle from LGB, so we’ll only need to grab a ride on Friday morning for the roughly 25 minute drive to the port. There’s a BUNCH of places to eat within a 12 minute walk, including something a lot like Boulder’s Avanti (i.e. a pavilion of food places) within just a couple of blocks of the hotel. The preliminary thinking was to try Georgia’s, a soul food restaurant at the Long Beach LBX, a short 7 minute walk from the hotel. Directly across the street is is Handel’s Homemade Ice Cream for a possible dessert. And, topping it off, the walk back to the hotel would pass directly by Whole Foods, allowing us to potentially dip inside to grab a couple of bottles of wine to bring onboard with us.

If the hotel reservation hadn’t been non-refundable, I probably would have cancelled and moved us over to Best Western Plus Hotel at the Convention Center, both to get us around better restaurants as well as reduce our drive to the cruise terminal in the morning. I also think it would have been cheaper – and losing the free airport shuttle would have been totally OK. I’ll probably put us at Best Western when we return in February 2026 for our Quantum B2B cruises.

I also spent time in late March and early April 2024 extending the vacation spreadsheet template. I added automated lookup of airline seat info so the Transportation tab would now highlight which flight legs were on “comfy” airplanes. I also built a new “B2B Finder” spreadsheet that can take Royal’s slate of sailings and automatically highlight back-to-back and side-to-side candidates. It will even flag when the two sailings are “interesting”, meaning that they sail different routes. This tool will help when considering 2026 cruises – as another way to generate C&A points would be strategic booking of B2Bs.

So, back to C&A. Since this cruise is going to generate double points, we’ll get 14 points for this 7-day cruise. Combine that with the 15 points we’ll get from the T&A we’ll be at 62 points – just 18 shy of Diamond level. Therefore, the tentative goal for 2026 is to gather at least 18 points so that, by the time of a potential 2027 TA, we’ll be Diamond BEFORE the TA. There are a lot of potential ways to get 18 nights in a year, but ideally we’ll do it in 2 cruises, or a single B2B. We’ll see how things go!

Among things to look forward to on this sailing is that Navigator has a specialty restaurant we haven’t seen on other ships yet: a place called “Hooked Seafood”. Hoping we’re able to grab a lunch reservation there on one of our sea days. Pricing is too high for dinner! The ship also has a place called “El Loco Fresh” that appears to offer free B/L/D – so this might be another novelty for us to try. As the weeks progressed pre-cruise I noted that I could get us a 3-night specialty dining package for $122 each, or roughly $41 per dinner. That seemed like enough of a bargain that I decided to snap it up so we could sample some combo of Chops, Jamie’s, and/or Hooked.

The ship – like its same-class sister ship Mariner – has an escape room, too. Hopefully it is a different story than that of the Mariner, as I’m hoping we can book it at some point. Sadly, I found out later that Navigator, Independence, and Mariner have the same escape room. Someone on CC asked the question and there was a link to RCCL’s marketing info. Harmony and Symphony share a room, while Oasis, Spectrum, and Icon each have unique rooms, for a total of five different rooms across eight different ships. We’ll find out when we get there, but I think there’s a REALLY high probability that the escape room is actually gone. They have certainly replaced it on some (all?) of the Quantum-class ships. They seem to instead be substituting puzzle-based events where multiple teams compete to solve different kinds of logic puzzle. E and I had previously done that on Mariner.

I did find a couple of prior Cruise Compasses for this ship and route and looks like we will have no trouble getting our fill of trivia!

As part of the normal “let’s watch videos to learn about stuff” I found a series of videos shot in 2023 about Oasis class ships that covered all the complimentary breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner options in MDR, Windjammer, Promenade Café, and ALL other venues offering non-specialty dining. It was really just an extensive video catalog of all the foods available (often with details about which day you’d find a particular item) – but this was our first exposure to the breadth of options outside of the MDR (for dinner) as well as non-Windjammer options for breakfast, brunch, and lunch. We’ll have to wait and see how much of the variety we saw in the videos is actually available on the smaller Navigator and (even smaller) Brilliance.

More videos I obsessively watched were a few on the layout of the San Pedro cruise port. Always nice to see how you get in and around the cruise terminal, and eventually made a reasonably important discovery, which is that San Pedro is a pretty small terminal. Most notably, it has very little waiting room space for passengers who have checked in but not yet boarded. As such, it sounds like this terminal is a bit more strict on enforcing your embarkation time while the large Florida terminals really just pay lip service to embarkation times. At San Pedro, you can generally get into line to enter the terminal to perform check-in (at most) 30 minutes ahead of your scheduled boarding time. If you show up earlier you’ll likely be kept waiting outside – possibly in the hot sun or pouring rain - in a different line before being allowed to enter the line that actually goes inside the terminal building. On the other hand, once inside the building it sounds like security, check-in, and boarding are handled very efficiently (as has been the case with these processes on all of the cruises we’ve taken so far). On CC I’m seeing that folks are often onboard within 15-20 minutes of arrival – at least when using their scheduled check-in time.

I initially got excited about the possible benefits of Suite Life, which included things like boarding access within +/- 1 hour of your scheduled time, access to the Suite Lounge on Deck 14, which includes free food and drinks from 5P-8P nightly, and breakfast in Chops from 8A-930A daily! Alas, those benefits only apply to Grand Suite and up, so us peons in Junior Suites have to mix with the rest of the great unwashed. Sigh…

Of course, pre-planning isn’t complete if I don’t find the webcams for San Pedro, Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan, and Puerto Vallarta. The latter two never actually seemed to be working but I never found better options so kept these around. In the weeks and months leading up to a cruise I enjoy the random sightings of ships in port while I’m updating myself on latest CC postings.

Another issue tackled during trip prep: how best to deal with Royal’s hard-as-rocks stateroom mattresses. We’ve tried to ignore this problem on our other cruises, but now that we’re five years older we’re that much less resilient when it comes to ignoring discomforts. So I want to be prepared this time. Research suggests that you can SOMETIMES get your stateroom attendant to put some additional comforter layer(s) under the bedsheet – but SOMETIMES they’ll run out of layers before you can get your request fulfilled. Don’t want to be bitten by this.

Many people – no doubt, mostly are those who drive to the port rather than fly – bring big foam mattress toppers with them. Many of them ALSO treat those as disposable items and leave them on the ship at the end of the cruise. I don’t really want to lug around 20 pounds of topper, however, nor potentially have to hack it up to make it fit (which some do), nor abandon it wastefully at the end. Instead, I found out that many people recommended getting two “Klymit Static V Luxe Sleeping Pad” from Amazon (https://tinyurl.com/mv3pvenm). They are reasonably light-weight – about 2.25 pounds each – and pack down to an 8” x 4.5” bag, so quite packable. The combined 60” width isn’t full mattress width, unfortunately – we’ll have about 6” per side without padding, while the length will also be 6” short, although this is unlikely to be a big issue. But this seems like a good choice for something we can easily pack and then reuse on other cruises. (It is actually possible that the JS mattresses on Navigator are OK – at least one CC poster who likes soft beds specifically called them out as being the best, most comfortable they’ve ever had on multiple Royal cruise. I suspect, however, that our mattresses on our Brilliance TA will likely be rock hard, so even if we don’t end up using this on Navigator we’ll still find use for them.)

When it came time to make final payment for the cruise (due in late November 2024) I went to Costco’s travel site and tried to make my final payment, but every attempt was rejected with a generic “there’s a problem….try later or call us”. Fortunately, I had started the process about a week before the payment was due so had a few days to “try again” before I finally called them on a Monday morning. Costco agent realized that this was a “known” problem with Royal and, unable to complete my transaction manually, had to call Royal while I waited online to work things out. On Royal’s side there’s apparently a refund of $216.93 due to me for a recent package rebooking (from 10 days ago, so SHOULD have been more than enough time for Royal to process the refund, although definitely not reflected in my CC statement) and that’s the cause of the problem. So while (correctly) Costco says I owe $X, Royal says I currently owe $X-$216.93 and the transaction is failing. All because Royal has failed to process my refund in a timely manner. (In truth, Royal posted the refund within 24 hours of my transaction, but it appears that it normally takes 10-14 days before the refund posts on my side.)

So there was 35 minutes lost to what should have been a touchless 2-minute transaction. Grrr. And the outcome was still unknown. Basically, Royal submitted the refund on 11/9/24 and it apparently takes 10-14 business days for the refund to credit back to me. (It is 11/18/24 as I write this.) So I’m supposed to plan to call Costco by no later than 11/23/24 (the final payment due date) either to:

a) Complete the payment with them because I have definitely seen a credit to my Wells Fargo credit card, or

b) Notify them I’m still waiting on the refund so they can extend my payment deadline.

I initially tried to pay off the cruise on a Monday (and went through the above with Costco on that day). I kept monitoring my WFB credit card and finally saw a large credit post on Thursday morning, so I immediately called Costco back and within a few minutes was able to get the final payment handled and received back the confirmation email from Costco showing we’d paid off the cruise, with two days to spare before the deadline. Whew! Coincidentally, that very same morning royalcaribbeanblog.com posted about this very same “nightmare issue” that travelers were facing. Thankfully we got our issue resolved without all the horrible outcomes described in the article, but talk about frustration!

Prompted by a calendar alert I’d set, at midnight 45 days before the cruise I got us checked in. Initially I’d planned to do this on the PC where I could do quick copy/paste operations, but I saw a message that I thought meant the site was down, so I instead had to use the app and manually key in passport and credit card numbers. Unexpectedly, I was able to start the login process about 5 minutes BEFORE midnight, so either I miscalculated the first day of check-in OR the process opened a few minutes early. Whatever the reason, although I was done with the first part of check-in by no later than 12:03A (or so – I forgot to look) the first available check-in time as 1130A-noon…so we’ll plan to arrive no later than 11A on boarding day with the assumption that we’ll be able to get into line. (Later, I decided that the website was indicating that the Cruise Planner was closed, but it is quite possible that there was a Check-In link that I missed. I noticed an “Edit Check-in” link on the website after I completed the app-based check-in that I probably missed the first time around.)

Now, back to pricing for a moment. Add-on package pricing changed throughout the months pre-cruise, but the obvious trend is that things are NEVER going to get cheaper. The best price is always earlier rather than later. Actually, the rule seems to be that price will debut at $X, then there will be a sale where $X will be discounted, followed by a return to $X but that’s a “fake” sale. So if you sign up early enough you can catch the first (and ONLY) true sales price, after which things just keep going up and up. Here’s an illustration, using the pricing on a 2-device internet package:

Intro price Mar 2024: $19.99/day ($217 for 2 devices): Effective price: 15.50/dev/day
First (fake) sale: $17.99/day ($217 for 2 devices): Effective price: 15.50/dev/day
REAL Sale Nov 2024: $16.99/day ($189 for 2 devices); Effective price: 13.42/dev/day
Post Nov 2024: $17.99 to $20.99/day

Royal is even sneakier with dining packages. It seems like earlier prices tend to INCLUDE pre-paid gratuities. Then stuff goes on “sale” at a lower price…but they conveniently fail to tell you that this new price does NOT include gratuities. The final price does tend to equal the original, but it is possible you’ll end up paying $1-3 MORE if you rebook at the “lower” price and then add gratuities.

Somewhere around a week prior to the cruise the ship-board activities and menus started getting posted to the app, so it was possible to get a preview of things we might want to do each day of the week.

Thursday, September 21, 2023

2023 England and Edinburgh : Final Thoughts


Highlights

  • Town of Bakewell
  • York Minster
  • Beamish Open Air Museum
  • Durham Cathedral
  • Alnwick Castle (and The Cookie Jar hotel)
  • The Royal Mile (including Holyroodhouse Palace and the restaurant La Locanda)

Other Thoughts

  • The town of York would be worth another visit.
  • Taking part in guided tours of places was definitely better than trying to do-it-ourselves. I include the cobbled-together self-tour of the Royal Mile I built from a couple of sources as a guided tour.
  • We think our next trip is likely to involve fewer destinations. We did literally live out of our suitcases for the 1st week and that wasn’t great.
  • Mixed feels about driving. It gives so much flexibility for trip planning, but introduces its own stresses.
  • Virgin Atlantic Premium Economy was TOTALLY worth the extra costs. Those 21” wide seats and tons of legroom made flying quite pleasant. I think we’re too old now for anything less.
  • Speaking of being old, we don’t adjust to timezone changes like we used to. We THOUGHT we had fully adjusted by the 3rd day, but we kinda regressed a bit and didn’t really adjust until about the 5th day. We never adjusted enough to have a serious appetite at breakfast time.
  • Although we had anticipated sightseeing with the backpack, we actually never took it on the road. We carried our jackets when needed and a few purse-sized items. (The backpack was still a great item to have with us – the perfect airplane carry-on and better than a rolling carry-on.)
  • We got lucky - Eileen didn't get Covid until 4 days AFTER we came home, although likely exposed to it on the trip.

Wednesday, September 20, 2023

2023 England and Edinburgh Day 11: Going Home

Of course, I got zero sleep before our 3A alarm. I continued to hear street sounds throughout the night, however, as there seemed to always be someone out and about. Around 2A I’m pretty sure I heard drunken singing, and at 330A, while E finished up her shower, I counted 12 people just outside our window. Not sure where these folks were coming from or going to, but they seemed to be out there with purpose.

We hauled our stuff downstairs and right out onto the street since the door into the restaurant was closed (ending our idea that someone would be staffing the front desk at all times). Our taxi driver showed up right on time – actually, about 3 minutes early – which meant that we stood outside for probably less than 60 seconds before we were on our way to EDI airport, arriving about 420A.

The airport was REALLY busy, which was a bit of a surprise. Lots of flights that were going out starting right around 500A. Although there was a lot of terminal noise from flight announcements, they didn’t waste any time with things like “this is how we board the aircraft, here are the carry on rules” and other such stuff. Just a lot of “Delta flight 100 to Heathrow now boarding group 1 at gate 10”, “Delta flight 100 to Heathrow is paging Bob Smith – your gate is closing”….but in the early morning they clearly had 10-15 flights taking off in the same general time window so there was always something on the loud speakers…with an emphasis on loud.

Of course, since we were a good two hours before our flight would board we didn’t even know what gate we wanted – we had to wait until about 50 minutes pre-flight before that was even posted. So we hung out by the closest gate and had a Krispy Kreme doughnut each before learning that our gate was, in fact, the one we were sitting next to. Our plane was at a remote stand so we actually just loaded onto buses before getting onto our (cramped) plane – to sit down you essentially had to stow your kneecaps somewhere else.

But soon enough we were at Heathrow picking up our bags and making the transfer over to Terminal 3. That YouTube video I had watched was absolutely spot-on and made the process so easy – no stress at all because it was exactly like what that guy had filmed. Again, we arrived at the terminal so far ahead of our flight that we again had to wait about 90 minutes for them to post our departure gate, so this time we each got a bag of chips while sitting in the general terminal waiting area. They had posted that one set of gates was a “10 minute” walk while another set was a “20 minute” walk – and fate placed us at the gates that were “20 minutes” away. Note sure what planet the signs were from because it only took us about 6-7 minutes to get there.

We boarded our return flight and settled into the much more comfortable arrangements. Since the LHR-SFO flight is a daytime flight rather than a nighttime flight they spend a lot more time keeping you refreshed than they do on the SFO-LHR leg. I was a bit more precise about documenting the timeline than I was on the outbound flight, and it went something like this.  All times expressed as BDT/PDT(Elapsed from Pushback).
  • 1135A/335A (T-0:35): Boarding
  • 1150A350A (T-0:20): Welcome Prosecco, juice, or water
  • 1210A/410A (T+0:00): Pushback (i.e. right on schedule)
  • 1230P/430A (T+0:20): Takeoff
  • 1245P/445A (T+0:35): Drink/snack service (crunchy snack)
  • 120P/520A (T+1:10): Cleanup
  • 140P/540A (T+1:30): Lunch/drink service (started at front of RH aisle, back of LH aisle)
  • 205P/605A (T+1:55): Cleanup
  • 220P/640A (T+2:10): Coffee/tea – the lights went off somewhere around here
  • 310P/710A (T+3:00): Duty free sales
  • 605P/1005A (T+5:50): Hot sandwich/drink car (not listed in the menus – we got tomato/Emmental sandwiches)
  • 625P/1025A (T+6:10): Cleanup
  • 650P/1050A (T+6:35): Ice cream (it was an apple juice popsicle)
  • 715P/1115A (T+7:00): Water
  • 720P/1120A (T+7:05): Cleanup
  • 905P/105P (T+8:50): Pre-landing hearty snack/drinks (lights up somewhere around here)
  • 935P/135P (T+9:20): Cleanup
  • 1045P/245P (T+10:30): Landing (about 25 minutes ahead of schedule)
For lunch, both Eileen and I had opted for the pulled pork in a BBQ sauce with corn salad and white rice, which was actually much better than either of us expected. Paired with the canned rose it wasn’t too bad. The dessert was mango and passion fruit cheesecake with frosting and topped with shaved coconut was non-descript, unless you like waxy coconut shavings. The mid-flight tomato and cheese toastie hot sandwich was mostly just hot – the cheese was semi-molten while the tomato was mostly non-existent.

For the pre-landing hearty snack (which was a fully plated meal) we basically had the choice of the sweet snack combo or the savory combo. The first was (iirc) cream-cheese and pickle finger sandwiches with some kind of salty caramel snack + something else + scone with clotted cream and strawberry jam. We both selected the savory combo, which included chicken caesar finger sandwiches, a small pork pie (basically a sausage meatball inside a sturdy pastry crust), a smoked salmon blini (a single bite), and the same scone/clotted cream/strawberry jam. The scone was great, the other items were fine as appetite suppressors but were otherwise “meh”.

We both managed several micronaps on the trip home, each of us probably getting 5-10 little 60 second naps, but no serious rest on the trip. I read most of the way and listened to music while E watched some TV and listened to music.

The Happy (and Tired) Wanderers, ready to push back from the gate at Heathrow for the final leg of our journey

Arrival at SFO was pretty unremarkable.  Because we were among the first off the plane (another huge advantage of Premium Economy seating) we were near the front of the line for border control – which moved INCREDIBLY slowly.  There were about 8 booths servicing US citizens, but at a couple of the windows we watched them talking with a single passenger for the entire 5-6 minutes we were in line.  It seemed pretty apparent to me that Caucasians were being sped through the checks but all the brown people were undergoing much more rigorous screenings.  I don’t know what the story was on those who appeared to be getting serious interviews, but our experience was: a) Turn over passport for agent to scan; b) have a quick photo taken by the agent; c) answer the question “Do you have anything to declare”?; d) “Thank you – welcome back”.  In other words, our process took less than 30 seconds.

Anyway, within about 10 minutes of clearing border control our luggage appeared on the conveyors, and we called Robert to discover that they were just a few minutes away.  Within 10 minutes of stepping outside we were in Ashely’s car heading for home, tired but happy.

Once home, we gratefully sat down and got re-acquainted with Midnight.  Fortunately we had a large frozen pizza in the garage freezer so we split that while watching mindless TV.  While E managed to stay up until about 9P I gave up at 7P and went to bed and quickly fell asleep, not getting up again until 630A the following day.

Good trip!


Tuesday, September 19, 2023

2023 Scotland Day 10: Real Mary King's Close, National Gallery, and Holyroodhouse Palace

Up early for our “9AM” booking at Real Mary King’s Close, a quick 3-4 minute walk from our hotel (LOVE this location)! We went downstairs to the Inn’s restaurant to get them to order up a taxi to take us to EDI airport tomorrow for our 7A flight to LHR. I figured we’d want a 5A pickup, but the desk clerk, clearly trying to ensure there was zero risk of any delay that they might be blamed for, strongly pushed for 4A pickup. Although this was too early…we did it, because we’re us.

Ruminated on how much tomorrow morning will suck while we had our “toast”. I say that because when they finally brought it – after about 15 minutes in a restaurant where we’re the only folks – it is some kind of strange brown bread, alongside a croissant. Turns out that white bread is ANOTHER delivery they haven’t received, so they gave us the toast and croissant on the house. Both very kind and very strange. Wondering if the issues are in any way related to supply chain/Brexit issues?

Anyway, walked the 3 minute walk to our “9AM” booking, arriving “10 minutes” early at 840A because, well, we’re us. Doors closed. Closed. Closed. At 905 I look at our tickets, which are for the 930A tour. Still the first tour of the day, but somehow I’ve mis-remembered the time because, well, I’m me. Anyway, we finally report at 920A for our 930A tour and are soon formed into our group by a tour person in a small room where we see a short health and safety video. As the video ends, our costumed tour guide bursts through the door, introducing himself as "Stephen Boyd", a real historical person who lived on Mary King’s Close in the 1600s, and we’re off.

The tour is surprisingly good, informative, and entertaining. There’s a bit of multimedia stuff midway, where our tour guide is interrupted by three characters projected on the wall who interact with each other. There’s very little sensationalizing of things and they stick to the facts. Their telling of the Mary Queen of Scots/Lord Darnley/Murder of Mary’s secretary hints – probably pretty accurately – at potential homosexual relationship between Darnley and the secretary. We succumb to gift shop attractions and purchase our photo (in a fridge magnet format) along with a woolen scarf (me) and earrings (E).  

There were no photos allowed on the tour itself, so I had to content myself with pictures of some of the foods on sale in the gift shop:







From here, we hike back to up Edinburgh Castle with the intent of touring the outside parts of the castle without a ticket, having determined that a ticket for today can only be bought for times after 130P, which we deem too late to do us any good if we keep to our plan to use our pre-purchased Holyrood tickets, too. However, upon arrival at the Castle it turns out that we can’t go through the Castle gates w/o a ticket, so the entire site is off-limits to us. I thought that only entry into the Castle building itself required a ticket, but no matter.

The Highland Tollboth Kirk (Church), now renamed The Hub.  We could hear church bells from our hotel room on the hour - I THINK they came from here, although perhaps they came from St Giles?

There were two people showing off small owls on the street on the way back to Edinburgh Castle.  I frankly have no idea why they were there.

Although we didn't have tickets to get in, I got close enough to avoid any of the construction cranes spoiling the shot of the castle.

A closeup of the entrance to Edinburgh Castle.  That's Robert the Bruce to the left and William Wallace to the right.

Instead, we hike down the steep hill to the National Gallery, where the main exhibit on the 3rd floor is of Old Master type stuff across approximately 18 rooms (most are double rooms, however, so there’s really about 9-11 rooms). We play the “you have to pick one which will be placed in our living room” game which makes the experience MUCH more entertaining for both of us. As usual, our tastes align for the most part. Though we don’t often both pick the same painting as our first choice, I don’t think there’s a single room where my #1 wasn’t E’s #2 and vice versa.

A view of the Princes Street area as we begin our walk to the National Gallery.  The Scott Monument towers to the left and the Balmoral Hotel's clock to the right.

Looking back up the hill from the vicinity of the National Gallery we can see Edinburgh Castle


Exiting the museum we quickly knew that we were NOT going to hike back up to the Royal Mile along the same path we had come down. Instead, we were going to walk a mile down (flat) Princes Street, knowing that the Royal Mile was also descending down and when we (eventually) cut back over to Holyrood Palace we’d still be walking a flat path. First, however, we checked Google Maps for a quick lunch spot and settled on the convenience (and known reasonable portion size) of a Pret a Manger for a couple of sandwiches.

Relaxing outside the National Gallery before making the walk to lunch

A panorama from the National Gallery.  The Scott Memorial and Princes Street is on e the left, the middle of the Royal Mile in in the area behind the green-domed Museum on the Mound, and Tollbooth Kirk is just behind the Gallery buildings in the foreground on the right.

The Scott Monument.  We were so focused on picking our way through the crowded bus stops that line Princes Street as we walked down to Waverley Station that we passed right by the monument without noticing it.  We were 30' beyond it when I happened to turn around and go "huh!"

A nice view of Edinburgh Castle from somewhere along Princes Street

Man at work

Hunger tided over, we made the walk over to Holyrood House where our pre-purchased tickets were quickly scanned and we were given headphones and a player that provided a nice little audio tour through about 25 places in and around the house. Several of the narrations were by various Royals commenting about their particular affinity for Holyrood as being a house that is more inviting and comfy than many of the places they might otherwise stay (and I can definitely agree that Holyrood, while still very large, didn’t have the overwhelming and cold proportions of a Chatsworth or some of the other ridiculously huge places we’ve seen before). Overall, a better experience than expected.

In the courtyard outside Holyroodhouse Palace

Just inside the gates of Holyroodhouse itself.  Once we got inside the buildings we weren't allowed to take pictures.

At this point we'd taken the guided interior tour (and enjoyed the interiors very much) and now we're heading over to see the ruins of Holyrood Abbey, built immediately abutting the house.  That's house wall on the right side of the photo.

Abbey ruins.  You can just see scaffolding in the upper left of the photo.  About 1/2 of the nave was blocked off by construction, blunting the impact of the ruins while we were there.  Of course, having already seen working cathedrals at York and Durham and prodigious ruins at Fountains Abbey we were unlikely to be impressed by these ruins anyway.

The audio self-guided tour next took us along a path through the gardens surrounding Holyroodhouse

I don't recall if there was a description of this section, but I assume these were the remains of walls from the monastic days

From behind the house there was a really nice view of Holyrood Park and Arthur's Seat.

Zooming in, we could see hikers who'd make the trek to the vista point at the top of Arthur's Seat.

As we were prepping to leave Holyroodhouse Palace to head back to the hotel I grabbed a one more shot of the front side of the place.

A bit of closeup detail of the carvings at the front entry...

...as well as some details of the fountain.  I was going to get more closeups but after taking this shot my phone's battery was completely exhausted and shut down!

We (slowly) hiked back up to the hotel, arriving around 3P, feeling tired out by our walking over the last several days. So we grabbed a couple of hours of rest and relaxation in our room (where I am writing this now) before heading out to Howies Restaurant for our early (and final) dinner of vacation. But before that happened we enjoyed another busker outside our window. Last afternoon we had a piper playing diagonally across from us, but today it was a proto-Jimi Hendrix with his electric guitar. Like last night’s piper he’s got a beautiful afternoon to play with.

And that brings me to the weather – or the weather forecast, more to the point. Pre-trip we’d been paying a lot of attention to the weather reports, and quickly discovered that they were close to useless. When waking up each day we’d check the local weather report and, for the most part, they were almost completely useless. At 8AM today, Edinburgh report said that we’d have rain until noon and then it would clear up. Well, although there was a mist from 840-900A while we were waiting outside Mary King’s Close, there was NEVER a real rain…and by 900A all moisture seemed to disappear. So the bottom line is that UK weather reports are NOT to be trusted. You have to dress in layers and ASSUME the weather will suck, but even when bad weather was forecast we generally didn’t experience it (thankfully). All things considered, we’ve had extremely good weather for touring – not very cold, and what “rain” we’ve had has mostly been a mild damp and never anything that we’d honestly call “rain” (other than a couple of mornings where, during our driving, we had real rain).

We had a 545P at Howies, which is (I think) a semi-institution here. If it is, we wonder why? This was a flat out bad meal. They seemed to be focused on turning over the tables as rapidly as possible rather than serving good food. Things were not helped by the fact that our waiter failed/forgot to enter E’s pre-dinner salad order, only explaining that after he picked up my soup (Cullen skink, which was reasonably good) and her salad silverware, and then he also got my meat temp wrong. I ordered medium-rare but he put medium. As a result, my steak was overcooked and poorly seasoned. I’d decided at the last second to order it with a peppercorn sauce which turned out to be a brown gravy. Fortunately it was served on the side, but I was using it to try to provide some moisture to the steak. We tried their sticky toffee pudding for dessert and the difference between the version we had in York vs Howies was night and day. Howies’ was glutenous, slightly burnt (which could, perhaps, be simply a style that is considered in the realm of normal) and a disappointment. Too bad it was our last meal here, because it really wasn’t a good food note to end on.

On the walk back to the hotel the street just outside our side window was closed off by police and we could see lots of blue flashing lights at the other end of the block from an apparent traffic accident. Didn’t directly impact us but hopefully not as serious as it seemed. Once in the room we turned on DAVE TV, which has been our nightly staple on this trip (and to some extent our 2013 trip with the boys) and enjoyed the various shows, most notably “Would I Lie to You?” and, of course, QI.

Sadly, packing had to commence, since we were getting up at 3A the next morning in order to get ready for our 4A taxi to the airport and the trip home.



Monday, September 18, 2023

2023 England and Edinburgh Day 9: The Royal Mile Sights and Shopping

Up at 8A and breakfast around the corner at City Cafe when they opened at 9A. City Diner-esque in décor and menu. Meh. But did get us back onto the Royal Mile quickly where we hoofed up to the Castle Esplanade (in light misting rain) to begin our travels. At the Esplanade there were a couple of giant cranes at work dismantling huge temporary grandstands left over from the prior month's Edinburgh Festival. These would have been used for folks to view the nightly military tattoo. For use, however, they do little other than spoil of views, unfortunately.

The Castle Esplanade, complete with an eyesore of a construction crane impeding our view of the castle.

We ended up buying a cheap umbrella immediately, mostly with intent to shield the script we were using for our walk down the Royal Mile.  The script was the mash-up I'd created of the Rick Steves narration and the local "Close Encounters" narration.  Of course, after 10 minutes of use the rain – which the 8A weather report said would continue until noon – stopped entirely for the rest of the day.  Anyway, made our way down the RM, which stops at Camera Obscura and St Giles Cathedral before lunch (at Café Edinburgh) for too much food around 1230P.  

The Camera Obscura museum is a bit pricey, but they do have a lot of interesting stuff across the six floors, including (of course), the actual camera obscura that allows viewing of Edinburgh via their rooftop mirror.  Lots of interesting exhibits of optical illusions.

Aaaargh!!!

The upper half of the Royal Mile is packed with kitsch.  There's tartan shops and whiski bars and souvenir shops and, of course, busking bagpipers.  As Rick Steves points out, so much of what is on display on the Royal Mile isn't really about Edinburgh itself, but about Scottish culture, imported into Edinburgh to be put on display for the benefit of tourists.

The statue of David Hume, with his shiny foot.  Legend says that rubbing his foot brings good luck.  It seemed to bring mostly tourists there to take picture of themselves rubbing the foot.

St Giles Cathedral, where John Knox preached and where English Catholicism morphed into Scottish Presbyterianism during the Reformation.  We entered about 12 minutes before the noon service, so hustled through without benefit of any decent information to guide our lap around the church. 

Statue of John Knox

Post lunch we did the lower half of the RM, stopping at Museum of Edinburgh and Museum of Childhood (free entry, and definitely priced right.  Not awful, but wouldn’t have been worth any kind of entry fee, either).  We also did all our Scotland shopping here, buying socks for the kids (at Soctopis), our traditional travel Christmas ornament at Ye Olde Christmas Shop, a shirt for me and scarves for E and a friend from a random gift shop.  We also stopped at a fudge shop and bought a (giant) slice of Dark Chocolate and Sea Salt fudge for later.

The lower half of the Royal Mile is definitely different than the upper half.  The upper half is much more vibrant and welcoming, even if much of it is touristy.  The lower half is much less dense in attractions and has much tattier shops.  It looks to me like the lower half also has a lot more residential stuff (apartments).  For the most part, most of the lower half seems like stuff you simply will pass by on your way to Holyroodhouse.

This view on the Royal Mile, looking down Cranston Street, reveals portions of the the cemetery on Calton Hill.  The Obelisque (on the left) called Martyrs Monument remembers 18th century Scottish Patriots exiled for their politics by London's dangerous ruffians like those who founded Australia.  The big turreted building in the center was the jail master’s house.  Today, the main reason to go up Calton Hill is for the fine views.  

During our exploration of the lower half of the Royal Mile we came across this Close.  Clearly, this was a highlight for me.

The new parliament building

Interesting note: down at the end near the parliament building was a street sign saying something like “Can you spot our undercover officers?”  It was for the police and also said something along the lines of “a security action could start at any time”.  I guess it was supposed to make us feel safe, but both of us had the same “holy shit – what happens around this place that this kind of thing is needed?” moment

Got back to the hotel around 345P, tired and with sore feet and backs.  As I type this up, sounds of a piper are wafting up from the street – now sunny and blue sky outside, of course.  We’re heading for dinner at La Locanda on Cockburn Street for a 630P reservation.  Also made reservation for tomorrow night’s dinner at Howie’s (on Victoria Street).  They only had openings at 545P and 730P, and since dinner is blocked for 2 hours of service (i.e. could be slow) we decided to take 545P and end our night earlier, given that we have to catch a cab early (i.e. around 5A) the next day.

Dinner was at La Locanda, a small (10 tables?) Italian restaurant on Cockburn (“Coburn”) street about 3 minutes away from The Inn.  Delicious!  I had a spicy mussel soup starter with the BEST mussels I’ve ever had, while E had a salad.  For the main, I had lasagna and she had pappardelle in a meat ragu.  Again, both excellent.  We were too stuffed to have dessert – plus, of course, we had a giant slice of fudge back in our room.  So we stepped out of the restaurant around 745P where the weather was a very pleasant balmy temp and walked back to the hotel. 

Looking towards the west (Castle) end of the Royal Mile around 830P